I was at my
camp in the Huachuca mountains of South Eastern Arizona, and getting a little
bored. I had been living there for the winter, Surviving on the meager funds I
had at my disposal and a lot of dumpster diving on the army base. There were
some pretty rich pickings in those dumpsters at the training areas. One
morning, over coffee, I decided to head for New Mexico. I had no clear
destination in mind, I would just headed east to see where I would end up. I
packed up and Cached some of my extra gear, then hiked the 5 miles down to town
from my "Stealth camp" in the mountains.
After a
stop over at my storage locker in the town of Sierra Vista, where I swapped out
some gear and clothing. I walked over to the dollar store and bought some
sardines, crackers and the cheapest jar of instant coffee I could find. On my
way back to the locker to get my pack I stopped at the tortilla factory and
picked up 2 packages of corn tortillas, that left me enough $$ to buy a can of
skoal dip, and a small bottle of coke. Im not really a pop drinker but I have
found that, a few drops of coke in a canteen of water makes it a bit more
palateable, especially warm or tepid water that has been sloshing around in a
plastic canteen.
I crammed
all of my gear into a small Northface "Krag dancer" pack and headed
out. I walked to the edge of town then caught my first ride that dropped me off
near tombstone. I took Highway 191 north through Arizona, and finally , in the
town of Strawberry, Arizona. I caught a ride East with a kid who was going to
new mexico. He wasnt a bad cat as I recall, and worked as a chef in phoenix. It
was a long ride , and about 20 miles outside of Gallop, NM, I asked him to drop
me off. Going into a town at night when you are hitch hiking is a pain in the
ass unless you have the funds to get a hotel room.
After I got
out of the car and my eyes adjusted to the moon light, I could see some
cottonwood trees in the distance and could smell cow crap, so I knew there was
a coulee near by. I jumped the fence and walked toward the cottonwoods, After
about 300 meters and came upon a bluff over looking the coulee. I set my tent
up near there with some sage brush shielding me from any view of the road. I
have always made hidden camps, mostly for 2 reasons; 1. im probably trespassing
and 2. I dont trust folks 100%. There is a line from a movie I remember,
"It is very imprudent to let your presence be known in hostile
country". Words to live by.
It was good
to relax, eat some food, then stretch out in my tent. It had been a long day of
travel and I was tired. I didnt have a sleeping bag with me, Just an Army
poncho liner, and it got a bit cool toward morning. I tend to go by the old
U.S. Army Infantry saying "Travel light freeze at night", it
certainly held true that night.
In the morning,
it was see your breath cold. After packing up, I headed down into the coulee
out of site of the road, then built a small twig fire from sage brush. I took
out my canteen cup, with lid, G.I. Spoon, coffee and tortillas. I heated some
water for coffee, and scorched a few tortillas for breakfast. The cheap coffee
I bought was horrible, so I added some coke to sweeten it up. The combo of coke
and coffee is my own version of "Jolt cola".
Thusly
refreshed, I headed up to the road and stuck out my thumb, the rest of the day
was a series of rides with some very interesting folks.
My last
ride picked me up just outside of the Jicarilla Apache Reservation near the
town of Jicarilla, new Mexico, the term Jicarilla comes from Mexican Spanish
and means "Little Baskets". This guy was a self proclaimed pot grower
and claimed he had plantations all over the mountains. He told me he was
heading toward Taos and knew of a place near Valdez that was good for camping.
The Dude
dropped me off in the mountains outside of Valdez, New Mexico, in the Hondo
river valley, of the Beautiful Sangre De Cristo Mountains. It is a pretty,
riparian area with lots of wild edibles to be had. Its only drawback is that it
is near Taos, NM, which like Tombstone, Az, has become a major tourist trap,
with over priced everything.
I
shouldered my pack then headed off the road and into the woods, walking toward
the river. I didn't have much food left in my pack, but my last ride gave me
some beer, corn chips and donuts. It was late in the afternoon so I dropped my
pack , took off my leather hiking boots and changed into my canvas high top
sneakers. There were numerous large dandelion plants growing at this spot so I
pulled up several and cut out the "crown" where the leaves meet the
root. Earlier in the day I had collected some burdock root and curly dock while
on the Jicarilla Apache reservation.
wading knee
deep into the river, I went searching for crayfish or any type of wild plant
edibles that I may find. I had already bagged 2 decent sized crayfish when I
spied a bunch of water cress growing in a small stream feeding into the Hondo.
I drew my
old Green River knife from its raw hide neck sheath and carefully cut several
bunches of cress. This combined with the burdock root,dandelion crowns, and curly
dock I had collected earlier would make the base for a decent stew. Placing the
cress into my net bag along with my crayfish ,I waded back into the stream to
look for more. After about 15 minutes more searching I ended up with a total of
5 Crayfish for my stew. It was a good haul.
Wading back
down stream to where my pack was stashed, I Picked up my gear and looked about
for a decent place to camp. I spotted a good looking area with some rocks
behind and a small cosp of aspens to the front, I decided to pitch my tent
there.
It took me
about 10 minutes to set up my tent and tarp and to change out of my wet high
top sneakers and back into my hiking boots. Grabbing my fishing line I headed
back to the stream to try my luck , I was surprised to catch 2 decent sized
trout, one right after the other.
A sprinkle
of rain had began, so I cleaned my fish at the stream and headed back to my
camp to gathered some fire wood and tinder. I wanted to get a fire going and
cook my fish and wild veggies.
I chopped
up the fish and veggies and threw that, along with the crayfish into my small
blue enameled cooking pot. I added some salt,and let it cook until the fish
fell apart. After the stew had cooked I added some crushed chillies, olive
oil,and a dash of vinegar for flavoring. I had a few beat up corn tortillas in
my pack so I heated those on the coals and made a canteen cup of coffee.
All in all
it was a tasty meal, I rounded it off with a few handfulls of home made trail
mix and raw oatmeal. Sitting there by my fire looking around, I noticed that
the river bluffs reminded me of sleeping mountain lions, I listened to the
sound of the aspen leaves as they danced on the wind, and in the gathering
twilight I could see bats and nightjars swoop and dive at the insects along the
river. It was a good way to spend a summer evening. You dont see Riparian
animals too much in my neck of the Arizona Mountains.
It was
refreshing to be there along the Hondo.I hung out for a few days along the
river and the Bull of the woods area, it was beautiful there, and I did some
hiking near Wheeler peak , which is the highest point in New Mexico.
After about
a week of hiking around and hitching rides into Taos for supplies, I packed up
and headed north to Raton to stop off and see my friend Alan and check on my
favorite Mule Arlene. I managed to get to Raton with 3 rides, one was from a
game warden....It marks the first time I was ever given a ride by law
enforcement while Hitchhiking. Alan was out and About when I arrived so I
dropped my pack in the Tack room and walked out in the pasture to see if his
Remuda was around. but, no, they were not there except for Chief and another
horse I didnt recognize. The rest of the remuda must be up in the hills above
Raton, grazing on fresh grass.
I went back
to the tack room and raided one of the Kayak boxes for some mountain house
meals, I got down a stove, then heated some water for javva and to rehydrate
the meals. I was 1/2 way through my 2nd freeze dried meal when Alan showed up.
Ha had to run a few errands and as luck would have it, getting ready to head up
to the NM/Colorado state line to set up a camp for a horse pack trip. We hopped
on the quad runner and went out to wrangle the rest of the stock. Followed by a
pack of dogs and a cloud of dust.
The area
where the Remuda was at, is one of my favorite environments, it is where the
mountains meet the prairie, so you find plants and trees from both areas there.
It is a very rich environment. With lots of great Elk, deer, and Bear hunting
in the Fall. We drove the quad up the fire break and the dogs were out ahead of
us - they knew the deal and so did the horses and mules. With a lot of barking,
some shouting and a bit of whistling, we got the equines headed down hill. I
was actually able to rope tequila - one of my favorite horses, and hopped up on
him for the ride back down the mountain. I dont know why, but for me, the
scenery seems to be prettier if you are forked up on a good horse or mule.
Anyway, we
drove stock down to the corrall, and would come fetch them up in the morning,
we threw out a few bales of hay , then went back to the barn and loaded into a
10 horse trailer, all of the needed saddles, tentage, ropes and food for an
over night trip.We were taking along Chief, Tequila, Arlene, Jake, Janet,
Josie, and a couple others I didnt know. But all of Alans stock are good stout
bastards and trail savvy, not to mention well trained. In my 7 years as a
hunting guide, working around Mules, I found that there are 2 things they dont
like - dogs and strangers..and, they can spot a rookie pretty quick. Though Im
far from a rookie about working with Equines, I didnt know some of the newer
Animals in Alans remuda so, I was going to work with Arlene as my mount, then
josie and janet as pack animals.
We made all
things ready for an early morning departure, then Al broke out some elk steaks
and a gallon of cheap red wine....What a great way to spend a summer evening!
sitting around outside, sipping wine, grilling bush meat, and swapping yarns
with an old friend....I always liked that part of New Mexico as well, it is one
of my favorite places.
Wayyy too
early the next AM,we made guides coffee, then hopped in the truck and drove the
trailer down to get the Horses and Mules, we caught them up, tied them off to
the trailer, then groomed and saddled each animal, hooking the bridle and bit
to the horn of our riding mounts saddles. After loading up, we drove to the
sugarite state park on the NM/Colorado state line, parked the trailer and
truck, unloaded the animals, packed our mules, with tents to set up for the
upcoming guests, our food, water, a stove and some fuel, along with an axe, and
a cross cut saw. Then we bitted our riding mounts, saddled up and lit out down
the trail.
It was cool
in the forest, there was a slight chill in the air, but it was refreshing to be
out. Mounted on a good savvy trail Mule has always been a pleasure to me, it is
one of the things I have always enjoyed. We climbed higher into the mountains ,
parts of the trail were pretty steep but Arlene had no trouble hauling me.
Alans little black pack Mule, Jake was being a bit of a problem though, by
fighting the others, and constantly trying to pull the lead rope away from Al.
I heard my
friend say "Jake, you little Bastard" about 1000 times on that ride.
There is something about black mules, they are - in my experience - always
causing problems. Compared to red mules, which I have found are easier to work
with. In fact, one Guide outfit I worked at in Montana would not mix red and
black mules together in the same string. It was either all red mules or black
mules. Never mixing horses into the pack string either. Horses are a pain in
the ass on the trail, and compared to a good tough mule are delicate. Needing
grain, special care, always tearing up a pack string etc. I have found that
even the dumbest mule is still 10 times smarter then the smartest horse.
It took a
few hours to get up to the first camp site area. We set up a picket line, then
unsaddled all but our riding mounts and 2 pack animals. Taking the Axe and
crosscut saw we went out and cut dead standing trees to make a tent frame for
the sheep herder tent we brought along for the future guests. We set up the
tent, then saddled up and went to the next location to do the same thing. We
returned to the 1st camp site, unsaddled the rest of the stock, watered them,
and broke out the grain and alfalfa.
There was
no fire danger as of yet so we kindled a flame in the true Guides fashion with
Ohio blue tip matches and coleman fuel. I cooked up a big pot of spaghetti,on
the coleman stove, made coffee, and Alan dug a mostly full bottle of crown
royal whiskey out of his war bag. We polished off dinner with a few apples and
gave the cores to the pack stock. We also fed the dogs from the bag of dried
food we brought along.
We sat
around sipping coffee fortified with crown royal, swapped some lies and war
stories about past hunts, and the people and Animals we have known. Alan, like
most mountain man/cowboy types is very well read, and has a college education,
it is always a pleasure to talk to him. He can intelligently talk about or
discuss most any topic, with the exception of sports - same with me. I have
never had an interest in sports, and find it silly, that most city types spend
their lives worrying about what team is going to the toilet bowl or what ever
it is called. To each his or her own I guess.
It was a good
time up there in the woods with my friend Al and some of my favorite Animals.
We eventually grew quiet, there were longer pauses in the conversation. I could
see that my friend was deep in thought about something besides being here in
the moment. I soon fell to sleep there by the fire, and awoke to throw a saddle
pad over me and under me, to help ward off the night time chill. In the morning
we packed up, saddled up, and hit the trail back to Raton. It was a good trip,
but I was bound for another adventure.
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