From Wikipedia cause im wayyyy too lazy to type it out myself......
Major Harold William "Bill" Tilman,
CBE,
DSO,
MC and Bar, (14 February 1898–1977) was an
English mountaineer and
explorer, renowned for his
Himalayan climbs and
sailing voyages.
Tilman was born on 14 February 1898 in
Wallasey in
Cheshire, the son of a well-to-do
sugar merchant John Hinkes Tilman and his wife Adeline Schwabe (née Rees). He was educated at
Berkhamsted Boys school. At the age of 18, Tilman was commissioned into the
Royal Field Artillery and fought in the
First World War, including the
Battle of the Somme, and was twice awarded the
Military Cross for bravery. His climbing career, however, began with his acquaintance with
Eric Shipton in
Kenya,
East Africa, where they were both
coffee growers. Beginning with their joint traverse of
Mount Kenya in 1929 and their ascents of
Kilimanjaro and the fabled "Mountains of the Moon"
Ruwenzori,
Shipton and Tilman formed one of the most famed partnerships in
mountaineering history. When it came time to leave Africa, Tilman was
not content with merely flying home but rode a bicycle across the
continent to the West Coast where he embarked for England.
He later volunteered for service in the
Second World War, seeing action in North Africa, and on the beaches at
Dunkirk. He then was dropped by
parachute behind enemy lines to fight with
Albanian and
Italian partisans, was awarded the
Distinguished Service Order for his efforts, and the keys to the city of
Belluno which he helped save from occupation and destruction.
Following his military career behind enemy lines in the
Second World War, Tilman took up deep sea sailing. Sailing in deep seas on the
Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter Mischief, which he purchased in 1954, and subsequently on his other pilot cutters
Sea Breeze and
Baroque, Tilman voyaged to
Arctic and
Antarctic
waters in search of new and uncharted mountains to climb. On his last
voyage in 1977, in his eightieth year, Tilman was invited to ship as
crew in
En Avant with mountaineers sailing to the South Atlantic to climb
Smith Island. The expedition was led, and the boat skippered, by the youthful
Simon Richardson. He and his crew aboard the old, converted steel
tug made it successfully and without incident to
Rio de Janeiro. Thereafter, en route to the
Falkland Islands, they disappeared without trace - it was presumed the ship had foundered with all hands.
Tilman was involved in two of the 1930s
Mount Everest expeditions - participating in the
1935 Reconnaissance Expedition, and reaching 27,200 feet without oxygen as the expedition leader in 1938. He
penetrated the Nanda Devi sanctuary with
Eric Shipton in 1934, and in 1936 he went on to lead an
Anglo-American expedition to Nanda Devi. With the support of a team which included
Peter Lloyd and
H. Adams Carter, Tilman and
Noel Odell succeeded in making the first ascent of the 7,816 metres (25,643 ft) mountain, which remained the
highest summit climbed by man until 1950. Tilman later described their arrival on the summit:
-
- Odell had brought a thermometer, and no doubt sighed for the hypsometer.
From it we found that the air temperature was 20 °F (−7 °C) but in the
absence of the wind we could bask gratefully in the friendly rays of our
late enemy the sun. It was difficult to realise that we were actually
standing on top of the same peak which we had viewed two months ago from
Ranikhet,
and which had then appeared incredibly remote and inaccessible, and it
gave us a curious feeling of exaltation to know that we were above every
peak within a hundred miles on either hand. Dhaulagiri,
1,000ft higher, and 200 miles away in Nepal, was our nearest rival. I
believe we so far forgot ourselves as to shake hands on it.[1]
In 1939, Tilman was the first man to attempt climbing in the remote and unexplored
Assam Himalaya, exploring the Southern approaches of Gori Chen, 6538 metres, before his team succumbed to malaria. In 1947 he attempted
Rakaposhi, then made his way to Kashgar to join up with
Eric Shipton in a lightweight attempt on
Muztagh Ata, 7546 metres, which nearly succeeded. On his way back to India, he detoured through
Afghanistan's
Wakhan Corridor to see the source of the river
Oxus. During his extensive exploration of the areas of
Langtang,
Ganesh and Manang in
Nepal in 1949, Tilman was the first to ascend Paldor, 5896 metres, and found the pass named after him beyond Gangchempo.
He was awarded in 1952 the
Royal Geographical Society's
Founder's Gold Medal for his achievements.